MyWaterClub Product Support

100 GPD RO Membrane — 1812 TFC

TW-1812-100
Reverse osmosis membrane · 1.8″ × 12″

This page covers which systems the membrane fits, how to replace it step by step, when to change it, and what to do if something doesn’t look right.

MyWaterClub 100 GPD RO membrane TW-1812-100, 1812 size, with brine seal
Is this your membrane?

Check these against the membrane in your hand.

  • ✓A membrane about 12″ long and 1.8″ across
  • ✓A black rubber brine seal at one end and two O-rings on the center tube at the other
  • ✓The label says 100 GPD or Model TW-1812-100 and My Water Club

100 GPD or another rating? Check your old membrane’s label
  • 100 GPD — this membrane. The standard membrane in MyWaterClub countertop RO systems, and a common upgrade for under-sink systems.
  • 75 GPD — same 1812 size, makes a little less water per hour. 75 GPD membrane (TW-1812-75) →
  • 150 GPD and higher — usually the larger 2012 size. All RO membranes →
  • Upgrading from 75 to 100 GPD? The membrane drops into the same housing. The small flow restrictor on the drain line is matched to the membrane rating, so a 100 GPD restrictor is recommended — ask us if you’re not sure which one you have.

Specifications

Model / SKU TW-1812-100
Type Thin-film composite (TFC), tap-water (TW) low-pressure membrane
Rating 100 GPD — about 4.2 gal/hr (rated at about 77°F, 60 PSI and low-TDS water; real output is usually lower)
Size 1812 (1.8″ × 12″) · fits standard 1812 housings; MyWaterClub housings also accept 2012
Seals Brine seal and double O-rings pre-installed
Typical life 2–3 years with good pre-filtration
Needs Sediment and carbon pre-filters before it; chlorine must be removed before the membrane
Brand MyWaterClub

Reorder this membrane

This membrane · TW-1812-100
100 GPD RO Membrane, 1812 TFC

The same membrane you have now.

Buy on MyWaterClub.com →

Buy on Amazon →

Where this membrane is used

System Where the membrane sits Notes
MyWaterClub countertop RO
CRO4T, CRO5DT, CRO5AT, 5MT
The membrane housing after the pre-filters The membrane our countertop systems ship with. Our housings accept 1812 and 2012 membranes.
Under-sink RO
4- or 5-stage, tank or tankless
Stage 4: after the sediment and two carbon pre-filters, in the membrane housing Fits systems built around a standard 1812 100 GPD membrane, and is a drop-in upgrade for 75 GPD systems (see the flow restrictor note above).
Other RO systems Any standard 1812 membrane housing Not for capsule-style systems that use their own built-in membrane.
Fits systems that use these 100 GPD membranes
  • iSpring MC1 — RCC1UP and RCC1UP-AK under-sink systems
  • TW30-1812-100 and other standard 1812 100 GPD membranes
  • Systems with a 75 GPD membrane (iSpring MC7, APEC MEM-ES-75 and similar) — as an upgrade, with a matching flow restrictor

Brand names are used only to show compatibility. MyWaterClub is not affiliated with these companies. Not sure? Send us a photo of your old membrane and housing.

How to replace the membrane

Replacing a 1812 RO membrane: open the housing cap and push the membrane in, O-ring end first
The housing cap unscrews; the membrane slides out.
Double O-rings on the RO membrane center tube, this end goes into the housing first
The O-ring end goes in first. The brine seal end faces the cap.
Before you start
  • You need: the new membrane, a towel, pliers to pull the old membrane, and a housing wrench if the cap is tight.
  • Good time to change the sediment and carbon pre-filters too — they protect the new membrane.
  • Keep the new membrane sealed in its bag until you are ready. Wash your hands first.
  1. Shut off the water. Close the feed valve to the RO system (and the tank valve on an under-sink system), then open the RO faucet to release pressure.
  2. Open the housing. If a tube connects to the cap, press the collet ring and pull the tube out. Unscrew the cap by hand or with the housing wrench.
  3. Pull out the old membrane with pliers by the center tube. Note which way it came out.
  4. Wet the O-rings on the new membrane with clean water so they slide in. Do not use petroleum grease.
  5. Push the new membrane in, double-O-ring end first, until it seats firmly. The brine seal end faces the cap. It takes a firm push — the end should sit flush, not stick out.
  6. Check the cap O-ring, screw the cap on hand-tight (snug with the wrench if needed) and reconnect any tube.
  7. Turn the water back on and check for leaks now, after 10 minutes and the next day.
  8. Flush before drinking: let the tank fill and drain it completely twice (discard the first two full tanks). On a countertop system, discard the first two full tanks of purified water.
  9. Write the date on the membrane housing or in your system manual.

First time? Search YouTube for “replace RO membrane under sink” — a short video makes the steps easy to follow. Countertop owners: follow your system’s manual for opening the cabinet.

Checking it with a TDS meter

  • Wait one week after the change. New filters and a new membrane read high for the first days.
  • Measure your tap water and the RO water the same day. Reduction = (tap − RO) ÷ tap. A healthy membrane typically reduces 95–99%.
  • Measure right after the membrane if you have a remineralization or alkaline stage — those add minerals on purpose and raise the reading.

When to change your membrane

Component Typical interval Change sooner if…
RO membrane 2–3 years TDS reduction drops below about 85–90%, or output stays slow after fresh pre-filters
Sediment and carbon pre-filters 6–12 months Output slows, or chlorine taste comes back

Changing the pre-filters on time is the best way to make a membrane last.

Common questions

What you’re seeing Most likely cause
Slow water production Clogged pre-filters, low water pressure (under about 40 PSI) or very cold water. Change the pre-filters first.
TDS high right after the change Normal for the first days. Flush two tanks and test again after a week.
Leak at the housing cap Cap O-ring twisted, dry or out of its groove. Release pressure, reseat it and re-tighten.
Membrane won’t go all the way in Wet the O-rings and push straight and firmly. Make sure the O-ring end goes in first.
Water runs to the drain all the time Normal while the tank fills. If it never stops, the shut-off valve or check valve may need service — contact us.
Water tastes flat RO removes most minerals. A remineralization filter after the membrane adds some back.

Related parts

Part Notes
RO membranes Other ratings that fit the same housing
Carbon post filter (PAC-QC) Final taste polish after the membrane
Inline filter guide Remineralization, alkaline and other add-on stages

Need help?

Contact us
Send a photo of your system and old membrane, and we’ll confirm the fit

Get in touch →

All manuals
Instructions for every MyWaterClub system

Browse manuals →

San Diego area service
In-person help and free basic water testing

Local service →

Warranty & returns
Coverage and how to start a return

View policy →

Call or text (858) 345-7345. Bought on Amazon? You can also reach us through Amazon: Your Orders › Contact seller.

About bacteria & microorganisms: because RO filters by size exclusion, it also reduces many particles down into the size range of bacteria and cysts. This membrane is not a certified microbiological purifier. Do not use it to make microbiologically unsafe water safe to drink — if you’re on an untested well or under a boil-water advisory, treat your water accordingly first.

Please note: Reduction performance and membrane life depend on your water chemistry, pressure, and usage, so results vary from home to home. This product is not certified to treat water of unknown quality and is not a substitute for testing your water. Descriptions use general, qualified language and are not health claims.