Single-Stage Whole House Water Filter System — 10″ × 2.5″, 3/4″ Port
This page covers both versions — they use the same housing, bracket, wrench, and cartridges. The only difference is whether a filter cartridge came in the box.
Specifications, installation, routine filter changes, and the exact replacement parts that fit this model.

Check these against the unit on your wall. All five should match.
- ✓One filter housing on a wall bracket
- ✓Housing is slim — about 2.5″ wide, blue sump with a black or blue cap
- ✓3/4″ NPT inlet and outlet ports
- ✓A pressure-relief button on top of the cap
- ✓Cartridge is 10″ × 2.5″ (not the wide 4.5″ Big Blue size)
Both use identical hardware, so it only matters for knowing what you started with:
- WHS-1S-1025 — came with a 5-micron sediment cartridge already fitted.
- WHS-1H-1025 — housing only. You chose your own cartridge, so check what’s actually in the housing before reordering.
Stage count and cartridge width decide which filters fit. Getting either wrong means a cartridge that won’t go in.
- One slim housing (this system) — takes a single 10″ × 2.5″ cartridge.
- Two or three slim housings — that’s a multi-stage system needing a matching 2- or 3-cartridge set. Find your model →
- A wide housing (~4.5″) with a 1″ port — that’s the Big Blue version and takes entirely different cartridges. See the Big Blue single-stage →
Specifications
| Model / SKU | WHS-1S-1025 (with filter) · WHS-1H-1025 (housing only) |
| System type | Single-stage whole house (point-of-entry) |
| Cartridge size | 10″ × 2.5″ (standard slim) |
| Port size | 3/4″ NPT |
| Included cartridge | 5-micron spun-polypropylene sediment (WHS-1S-1025 only) |
| Cartridge life | 3–12 months (varies with water quality) |
| Operating temperature | 40°F – 100°F — cold water only |
| Pressure relief | Yes — button on cap |
| Mounting | Wall-mount bracket & screws included |
| Brand | MyWaterClub |
Manual & installation
Mounting, 3/4″ NPT connections, startup, and the cartridge-change procedure.
- Install on the main cold-water line at the point of entry, after the main shut-off valve. A bypass loop lets you service the filter without shutting off the whole house.
- Mount the bracket to a wall stud with the included screws — the housing hangs from the bracket for easy access.
- Use PTFE tape on the 3/4″ NPT threads, and confirm the flow direction (in → out) marked on the cap.
- Cold water only. Do not install on a hot-water line, and keep the unit freeze-protected and out of direct sunlight.
- Professional installation is recommended if you’re not comfortable working on main-line plumbing.
When to change your filter
| Component | Typical interval | Change sooner if… |
|---|---|---|
| Filter cartridge 5 µm sediment as shipped |
3–6 months Nearer 3 on heavy sediment or well water |
House-wide pressure loss — the classic clogged-sediment signal · visible discoloration on the cartridge |
| Housing O-ring | Inspect every change Replace every 12–24 months |
Cracked, flattened, brittle, or weeping at the seam |
| Filter housing | 3–4 years | Any crazing, hairline cracks, cloudiness, or a leak that a new O-ring doesn’t stop |
Intervals are typical estimates. Your water chemistry, pressure, and household usage determine the real schedule. Slim 10″×2.5″ cartridges hold less media than Big Blue ones, so they generally need changing more often.
Filter housings are under constant line pressure. Over years the plastic fatigues and can crack without warning — a failed housing on a main line can flood a home.
Replace the housing every 3–4 years regardless of appearance, and immediately at any sign of crazing, cracking, or a persistent leak. Write your install date on the housing with a marker, or on the magnet, so the next change is easy to date.
Which replacement cartridge fits this system
This system takes one 10″ × 2.5″ cartridge. A 2- or 3-cartridge set is for the multi-housing systems — you’d have cartridges left over with nowhere to put them.
The like-for-like replacement — the same spun-polypropylene cartridge the WHS-1S-1025 shipped with. Captures dirt, sand, silt, rust flakes and scale particles.
Same 5-micron rating and same fit, but the pleated construction can be rinsed and reused rather than replaced. On water that loads the cartridge every few months, it usually pays for itself — and it keeps sediment protection, which the carbon and specialty options below do not.
Changing what this system does
Because it uses industry-standard slim cartridges, this housing will accept any 10″ × 2.5″ media — carbon, catalytic, iron or scale. You aren’t locked into sediment.
On a two- or three-stage system, sediment sits in front and protects everything behind it. On a single-stage system there is no “behind.” Putting a carbon or specialty cartridge in this housing means you no longer have sediment filtration at all.
That matters because unprotected media clogs with grit and reaches the end of its useful life early — often much sooner than its rated interval. Expect a shorter service life and a pressure drop that arrives faster.
If you want both sediment control and carbon or specialty treatment, the honest answer is a two-housing system rather than a compromise cartridge in this one.
| Cartridge | Best for | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Sediment — the default for a single-stage system | ||
| Pleated Sediment — Washable
SED5-PLT · 5 µm
|
Heavy sediment & well water | Traps dirt, silt, sand, and rust like the standard sediment filter, but can be rinsed and reused instead of replaced. The most sensible swap on this system — it keeps sediment protection while cutting your running cost. |
| Carbon — replaces sediment filtration entirely | ||
| Carbon Block CTO
CTO-10 · 10 µm
|
Everyday chlorine, taste & odor — best value | Activated carbon block. Reduces chlorine, the tastes and odors it causes, and many common VOCs. At 10 micron it also captures fine sediment — unlike the coarser catalytic cartridges — making it the least compromised way to get chlorine reduction from a single housing. |
| Coconut Shell Carbon Block
HQCBC-10-5 · 5 µm
|
Best taste polishing · finest particle capture | Coconut-shell carbon block — denser media with a finer pore structure than standard CTO, which is what coconut carbon is prized for on taste and odor. At 5 micron it holds back the most particulate of any carbon option, so on a single-housing system it’s the closest thing to getting both jobs from one cartridge. |
| Advanced Catalytic Carbon
CAT-10 · GAC-style
|
Chloraminated city water | Catalytic carbon. Standard carbon has limited effect on chloramine — this is the correct media if your utility disinfects with chloramine rather than free chlorine. Also helps with hydrogen sulfide (rotten-egg smell). Being granular, it does little for sediment. |
| Premium Catalytic + KDF-85
CATKDF85 · 3/4 lb KDF
|
Chloramine + H₂S + metals · longest life | Catalytic carbon blended with KDF-85. Covers what the catalytic cartridge does and adds heavy-metal reduction. The KDF component also inhibits bacterial growth in the media bed, so it typically runs longest of the carbon options — useful on a single-stage system where nothing is protecting it. |
| Specialty media — replaces sediment filtration entirely | ||
| Iron Reduction — Iron-Removal Resin
IRON10
|
Clear-water iron staining | Iron-removal resin that reduces dissolved iron — the usual fix for orange staining in sinks, tubs, and laundry on well water. For clear-water (dissolved) iron only. If your water comes out already orange or rusty, the iron has oxidized and needs a backwashing iron system instead. Note that well water usually carries sediment too, which this cartridge is not designed to catch. |
| Scale & Corrosion Inhibitor
SCALE10 · polyphosphate
|
Limescale & corrosion protection | Polyphosphate media that holds hardness minerals in suspension so they’re less able to form scale in pipes, water heaters, and appliances, and helps limit corrosion of metal plumbing. Important: this does not remove hardness minerals and is not a water softener. Your water will still test hard and still feel hard — the benefit is protecting your plumbing, not soft water. |
All cartridges above are standard 10″ × 2.5″ and drop straight into this housing. Filter life varies by media and by your water — see each product page for its interval.
The right choice depends on what’s actually in your water, and with a single housing the trade-offs are sharper than on a multi-stage system. A water test is the reliable way to decide — guessing usually costs more than testing.
Browse all 10″×2.5″ specialty cartridges → ·
Send us your water report → ·
Free basic testing in San Diego →
Parts that fit this system
Also available on Amazon. See all Slim 10″×2.5″ parts →
Changing your filter
- Shut off the water. If you have a bypass loop or shutoff valves either side, use those. If not, close your main house shutoff.
- Open a cold tap downstream, then press the pressure-relief button on top of the cap until it stops hissing. Never open a housing under pressure.
- Put a bucket and towel underneath — the housing holds water.
- Unscrew the housing with the wrench.
- Remove the old cartridge. Rinse the housing with clean water; no soap or detergent.
- Inspect the O-ring. If it’s flat, cracked, or brittle, replace it. Seat it fully in its groove and wipe it with a thin film of food-grade silicone grease.
- Fit the new cartridge, centred on the standpipe.
- Hand-tighten the housing, then snug it with the wrench. Do not overtighten — overtightening cracks housings and distorts O-rings.
- Turn the water back on slowly. Check the seam and both 3/4″ connections for leaks.
- Run a nearby cold tap for 5–10 minutes. If you fitted a carbon cartridge, grey or cloudy water at first is normal and clears.
- Write the date on the housing or your magnet so the next change is easy to schedule.
Common questions
| What you’re seeing | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Water pressure has dropped through the house | A loaded cartridge. This is the normal end-of-life signal — change it. On a slim housing with heavy sediment this can happen within a few months. |
| Leak where the housing meets the cap | O-ring not seated in its groove, or worn. Depressurize, reseat or replace the O-ring, lightly grease it. |
| Leak at a 3/4″ port connection | Too little PTFE tape on the threads, or over-torquing has stressed the port. Redo the tape; do not over-tighten. |
| Housing won’t unscrew | Pressure still in the housing, or it was overtightened last time. Confirm the water is off and you’ve pressed the relief button, then use the long-reach wrench. |
| Still tastes or smells of chlorine | Expected with the sediment cartridge fitted — sediment media doesn’t touch chlorine. Chlorine reduction needs a carbon cartridge, which on a single-stage system means giving up sediment filtration. See the note above. |
| The cartridge I bought doesn’t fit | Almost always a Big Blue 10″×4.5″ cartridge bought by mistake. This system takes the narrower 10″×2.5″ slim size. |
| I received extra cartridges I can’t use | You’ve likely bought a 2- or 3-cartridge set meant for a multi-housing system. This one takes a single cartridge. |
| Water is still hard, or leaves scale | Expected. This is a filtration system, not a softener — it does not remove hardness minerals. A scale inhibitor cartridge protects plumbing but won’t soften the water. |