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Inline ORP Conditioning Filter — 10″ × 2″
ORP-QC
Final stage · ORP conditioning
This page covers where the filter goes, how to install it, how to test ORP and pH, when to change it, and the parts that fit it.
Is this your filter?
Check these against the filter in your hand. All four should match.
- ✓A white inline filter about 10″ long and 2″ across
- ✓The label says ORP · alkaline, ORP and tourmaline media
- ✓Quick-connect ports at both ends and a flow arrow on the label
- ✓SKU / Reorder # ORP-QC on the label, and a QR code that opens this page
ORP, alkaline or mineral? Check the label
- ORP — lowers ORP (oxidation-reduction potential) and adds mild alkaline buffering. This page.
- ALC — alkaline, a stronger pH raise, about 8.4–9.3. ALC-QC support page →
- MIN — remineralization, a gentle pH raise, about 7.5–8.3. Remineralizing filters →
- Other inline filters (sediment, carbon, DI) — see the full guide. Inline filter guide →
Specifications
| Model / SKU | ORP-QC |
| Media | 50% alkaline media, 25% ORP media, 25% tourmaline |
| What it does | Lowers the ORP of RO or filtered water, typically to about −100 to −250 mV, adds mild alkaline buffering, and gives a smoother taste and mouthfeel (varies with source water, flow and contact time). It does not reduce chlorine, sediment, fluoride or dissolved solids (TDS). |
| Position | Final stage — after the RO membrane and after the carbon post filter |
| Size | 10″ × 2″ |
| Connection | Quick connect · elbow adapters included for 1/4″ or 3/8″ OD tubing |
| Pressure / temperature | Max 90 PSI · 36–100°F, cold water only |
| Typical life | Replace when ORP and pH readings drift back toward plain RO water |
| Brand | MyWaterClub |
Reorder this filter
This filter · ORP-QC
Inline ORP Conditioning Filter
Choose 1/4″, 3/8″ or universal adapters when you order. The price per filter drops when you buy more.
Where it goes
An ORP filter is always the final stage. It conditions water that has already been filtered — keep your sediment, carbon and RO stages in place.
| Your setup | Order of stages |
|---|---|
| Countertop RO | Faucet adapter → sediment (SED) → pre-carbon (CAC) → RO membrane → post filter (PAC) → ORP filter → faucet |
| Under-sink RO | Pre-filters → RO membrane → storage tank → carbon post filter → ORP filter → RO faucet |
Placement rules
- Before any carbon filter — no. Carbon takes out part of what this filter adds. Put the ORP filter after it.
- Before the RO membrane — no. The membrane would remove what the filter adds.
- Together with an alkaline or mineral filter — choose one final-stage filter. This one already contains alkaline media.
- Hot water lines — not for hot water. Cold water only, 36–100°F.
Connections
Before you cut anything
- Check your tubing size. It is either 1/4″ OD or 3/8″ OD, usually printed on the tubing. Use the matching elbow adapters from the box. Never force 1/4″ tubing into a 3/8″ port, or the reverse.
- Water must flow the way the arrow on the label points — toward the faucet.
- You need a tubing cutter (or a sharp utility knife), a towel and a small bucket.
- Push an elbow adapter that matches your tubing into each filter port until it stops, and tug to check it holds.
- Cut the tubing square. A cut off by about 15° or more will leak. The last inch should be round, smooth and free of scratches.
- Remove any blue C-clips from the adapters. A clip left in stops the tube from seating.
- Push the tube in until it stops, then pull gently to confirm it holds.
- Refit the blue C-clips on every quick-connect port.
To remove a tube later: turn off the water and release pressure, take off the C-clip, push the collar in toward the filter and pull the tube out while holding the collar.
Installing on an RO system
First time? Watching a short video helps: search YouTube for “add inline filter to RO system”.
- Shut off the RO water supply (and the tank valve on an under-sink RO), then open the RO faucet to release pressure.
- Find the spot: after the carbon post filter, right before the faucet.
- Check the tubing size and fit the matching elbow adapters, then cut the tubing square over a towel.
- Connect the filter with the flow arrow pointing toward the faucet, and refit the C-clips.
- Secure the filter with a clip: a 2.5″ × 2″ clip onto the membrane housing, or a 2″ × 2″ clip onto another inline filter.
- Turn the water back on. Check for leaks now, after 10 minutes, and the next day.
- Flush for at least 5 minutes with the RO faucet open. On an under-sink RO, let the tank fill, then discard the first full tank.
- Write the install date on the label.
Testing ORP and pH
- Wait one week after installing a new filter. The first water through new media reads higher than normal.
- Test right away. Run the water for a minute and test immediately — ORP and the pH of RO water change within minutes in an open cup.
- ORP: use an ORP meter and let the reading settle for a minute or two. Readings depend on your water, flow and how long the water sat in the filter.
- pH: use a calibrated pH meter (pH 7 and pH 4 or pH 10 buffers). pH strips and drops are not accurate in low-mineral RO water.
- TDS goes up a little after this filter. That is expected. Measure TDS right after the RO membrane to judge the membrane.
Digital pH meter → · Full testing steps in the inline filter guide →
When to change your filter
| Filter | When to replace | Change sooner if… |
|---|---|---|
| ORP conditioning filter | When ORP and pH drift back toward plain RO water |
Flow drops, or the taste goes flat again |
Write your first readings on the label after the first week, then test once a month and compare.
Parts that fit this filter
| Part | Notes |
|---|---|
| Carbon post filter (PAC-QC) | Goes right before this filter |
| 1/4″ stem × 3/8″ quick-connect elbow, 2-pack | Spare adapters for 3/8″ tubing |
| Blue C-clips for 1/4″, 10-pack | Locks the tube in a 1/4″ port · clips for 3/8″ |
| 2.5″ × 2″ mounting clips, 2-pack | Clips the filter onto an RO membrane housing · 2″ × 2″ clips |
| 1/4″ OD tubing, white | If you need extra length · 3/8″ tubing · tubing cutter |
Common questions
| What you’re seeing | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Cloudy or milky water from a new filter | Fine mineral particles or trapped air. Flush for at least 5 minutes; it clears within a day or two. |
| ORP reads positive, not negative | The water sat in a cup, the meter hadn’t settled, or the water came from the storage tank after a long pause. Run the water, test immediately and let the reading settle. If it stays positive after a few weeks of use, the media is used up. |
| pH readings jump around | Normal in low-mineral water. Calibrate the meter, stir gently and wait for the reading to settle. |
| TDS is higher after this filter | Expected — the filter adds a small amount of minerals. Judge the RO membrane by testing before this filter. |
| Drip at a quick-connect port | Tube not fully in, scratched or cut at an angle, or the C-clip was left in. Release, recut square, push it fully in and refit the clip. |
| Low flow at the faucet | Filter installed backward or kinked tubing. Check the arrow and the tubing. |
Need help?
Contact us
Send a photo of the filter label and your system, plus your readings, and we’ll help
Call or text (858) 345-7345.
Scope note: This is a water-conditioning filter, not a contaminant filter. It does not reduce chlorine, sediment, fluoride or dissolved solids. ORP and pH describe the water’s measurable properties and taste only; we make no health claims. Use it on municipally treated or otherwise microbiologically safe water.
Please note: ORP, pH and filter life depend on your source water, flow rate, contact time and usage, so results vary from home to home. This product is not a substitute for testing your water.