Single-Stage Big Blue Whole House System — 10″ × 4.5″, 1″ Ports
This page covers specifications, installation, routine filter changes, and the exact replacement parts that fit this model.

Check these against the unit on your wall. All five should match.
- ✓One filter housing on a metal mounting bracket
- ✓Housing is large-diameter “Big Blue” — roughly 4.5″ across
- ✓1″ ports with brass threaded inserts
- ✓A pressure-release button on top of the cap
- ✓Cartridge is 10″ × 4.5″ (not the slim 2.5″ size)
Stage count and cartridge width decide which filters fit. Getting either wrong means a cartridge that won’t go in.
- One Big Blue housing (this system) — takes a single 10″ × 4.5″ cartridge.
- Two Big Blue housings — that’s the dual-stage system. Go to that page →
- Three Big Blue housings — that’s the triple-stage system. Go to that page →
- Narrow housings (~2.5″) with 3/4″ ports — that’s a slim system and takes entirely different cartridges. Find your model →
Specifications
| Model / SKU | WHS-1S-10BB |
| Stages | 1 — Sediment (5 µm) as shipped |
| Cartridge size | Standard 10″ × 4.5″ (10BB / Big Blue) |
| Connection | 1″ NPT, brass threaded inserts |
| Working pressure | 20–80 PSI · max 90 PSI |
| Operating temperature | 40–100°F (4–38°C) — cold water only |
| Typical filter life | 6–12 months (3–6 on heavy sediment or well water) |
| Shipped with | 5 µm sediment cartridge (installed), housing wrench, steel mounting bracket, mounting screws |
| Brand | MyWaterClub |
Manual & installation
Mounting, 1″ NPT connections, startup, and the filter-change procedure.
- Cold main line, after the house shut-off, in a dry, level, freeze-protected spot out of direct sunlight.
- Check the IN/OUT markings on the cap before you plumb it in.
- Use 5–10 wraps of PTFE tape. Do not over-wrap or over-torque — that’s what cracks caps, even with brass inserts.
- Mount to a wood stud with the supplied screws; masonry or drywall needs anchors.
This system doesn’t include built-in shutoffs. A valve on the inlet and the outlet turns future filter changes into a five-minute job instead of shutting off water to the whole house. A bypass loop is better still. If your installer didn’t fit them, close your main house shutoff before every change.
When to change your filter
| Component | Typical interval | Change sooner if… |
|---|---|---|
| Filter cartridge SED5-10BB as shipped |
6–12 months 3–6 on heavy sediment or well water |
House-wide pressure loss — the classic clogged-sediment signal · visible discoloration on the cartridge |
| Housing O-ring | Inspect every change Replace every 12–24 months |
Cracked, flattened, brittle, or weeping at the seam |
| Filter housing | 3–4 years | Any crazing, hairline cracks, cloudiness, or a leak that a new O-ring doesn’t stop |
Intervals are typical estimates. Your water chemistry, pressure, and household usage determine the real schedule. Big Blue cartridges hold more media than slim ones, which is why they generally run longer between changes.
Filter housings are under constant line pressure. Over years the plastic fatigues and can crack without warning — and a failed Big Blue housing on a 1″ main line releases water fast enough to flood a home.
Replace the housing every 3–4 years regardless of appearance, and immediately at any sign of crazing, cracking, or a persistent leak. Write your install date on the housing with a marker, or on the magnet, so the next change is easy to date.
Which replacement cartridge fits this system
This system takes one 10″ × 4.5″ Big Blue cartridge. A 2- or 3-cartridge set is for the multi-housing systems — you’d have cartridges left over with nowhere to put them.
The like-for-like replacement — the same cartridge your system shipped with. Melt-blown polypropylene; captures dirt, silt, sand, rust and scale particles.
Same 5-micron rating and same fit, but the pleated construction can be rinsed and reused rather than replaced. On water that loads the cartridge every few months, this usually pays for itself.
Changing what this system does
Because it uses industry-standard Big Blue cartridges, this housing will accept any 10″ × 4.5″ media — carbon, catalytic, bone char, iron or scale. You aren’t locked into sediment.
On a two- or three-stage system, sediment sits in front and protects everything behind it. On a single-stage system there is no “behind.” Putting a carbon or specialty cartridge in this housing means you no longer have sediment filtration at all.
That matters because unprotected media clogs with grit and reaches the end of its useful life early — often much sooner than its rated interval. Expect a shorter service life, and a pressure drop that arrives faster.
If you want both sediment control and carbon or specialty treatment, the honest answer is a two-housing system rather than a compromise cartridge in this one.
| Cartridge | Best for | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Sediment — the default for a single-stage system | ||
| Pleated Sediment — Washable
SED5-PLT-10BB · 5 µm
|
Heavy sediment & well water | Traps dirt, silt, sand, and rust like the standard sediment filter, but can be rinsed and reused instead of replaced. The most sensible swap on this system — it keeps sediment protection while cutting your running cost. |
| Carbon — replaces sediment filtration entirely | ||
| Carbon Block CTO
CTO-10BB · 10 µm
|
Everyday chlorine, taste & odor — best value | Activated carbon block. Reduces chlorine, the tastes and odors it causes, and many common VOCs. At 10 micron it also captures fine sediment — unlike the 25-micron catalytic cartridges below — which makes it the most balanced single-cartridge choice if you want chlorine reduction without giving up all particle filtration. |
| Premium Coconut Carbon Block
CACB-10BB · 10 µm
|
Best taste polishing · longest carbon life | Extruded coconut-shell carbon block — denser media with a finer pore structure than standard CTO, which is what coconut carbon is prized for on taste and odor. Rated 6–12 months rather than 3–12, so it goes longer between changes. Also 10 micron, so it captures fine sediment as well. |
| Advanced Catalytic Carbon
CAT-10BB · 25 µm · Centaur®
|
Chloraminated city water | Catalytic carbon made with Centaur® by Calgon. Standard carbon has limited effect on chloramine — this is the correct media if your utility disinfects with chloramine rather than free chlorine. Also helps reduce hydrogen sulfide. At 25 micron it does little for sediment. |
| Premium Catalytic + KDF-85
CATKDF85-10BB · 25 µm
|
Chloramine + H₂S + metals · longest life | Catalytic carbon blended with KDF-85. Covers what the catalytic cartridge does and adds heavy-metal reduction. The KDF component also inhibits bacterial growth in the media bed, so it typically runs longest of the carbon options — useful on a single-stage system where nothing is protecting it. |
| Specialty media — replaces sediment filtration entirely | ||
| Bone Char
BC-10BB · 25 µm
|
Fluoride, heavy metals & arsenic | One of the few media that helps reduce fluoride under suitable conditions, alongside heavy metals and arsenic. It also handles chlorine, taste, and odor. Performance depends on contact time and water chemistry. |
| Iron Reduction + Softening Resin
IRON-10BB
|
Clear-water iron & light softening | Softening resin that reduces dissolved iron, manganese, and some hardness — the usual fix for orange staining on well water. For clear-water (dissolved) iron only. If your water comes out already orange or rusty, the iron has oxidized and needs a backwashing iron system instead. Note that well water usually carries sediment, which this cartridge is not designed to catch. |
| Scale Inhibitor — Salt-Free
SCALE-10BB
|
Limescale protection | Conditions hardness minerals so they’re less able to form scale in pipes, water heaters, and appliances. No salt, no drain, no backwashing. Important: this does not remove hardness minerals and is not a water softener. Your water will still test hard and still feel hard — the benefit is scale protection for your plumbing, not soft water. |
All cartridges above are Big Blue 10″ × 4.5″ and drop straight into this housing. Filter life varies by media and by your water — see each product page for its interval.
The right choice depends on what’s actually in your water, and with a single housing the trade-offs are sharper than on a multi-stage system. A water test is the reliable way to decide — guessing usually costs more than testing.
Browse all Big Blue specialty cartridges → ·
Send us your water report → ·
Free basic testing in San Diego →
Parts that fit this system
Big Blue parts are a different size from slim 10″×2.5″ parts — make sure you’re ordering the Big Blue version.
| Part | Part number | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Big Blue Housing | HOUSING10BB | 1″ ports, brass inserts, pressure-release cap |
| Housing O-Ring | — | The seal between housing and cap — the usual cause of a leak |
| Housing Wrench | WR-10BB | Replacement for the one in the box · Big Blue size only |
| Single-Stage Mounting Bracket | [[BR-1-10BB]] | Steel wall bracket |
| 1″ Connection Nipple | FT-UN-1W-R | With O-ring · two per system |
Browse all Big Blue parts → Also available on Amazon.
Changing your filter
- Shut off the water. If shutoff valves were fitted either side of the system, close both. If not, close your main house shutoff.
- Open a cold tap downstream, then press the pressure-release button on top of the cap until it stops hissing. Never open a housing under pressure.
- Put a bucket and towels underneath. A Big Blue housing holds well over a gallon — considerably more than a slim housing, so plan for the spill.
- Unscrew the housing with the Big Blue wrench, supporting its weight as it comes free.
- Remove the old cartridge. Rinse the housing with clean water; no soap or detergent.
- Inspect the O-ring. If it’s flat, cracked, or brittle, replace it. Seat it fully in its groove and wipe it with a thin film of food-grade silicone grease.
- Fit the new cartridge, centred on the standpipe.
- Hand-tighten the housing, then snug it with the wrench. Do not overtighten — overtightening cracks housings and distorts O-rings.
- Turn the water back on slowly. Check the seam and both 1″ connections for leaks, and check again after 12 hours.
- Run a nearby cold tap for 10–15 minutes. If you fitted a carbon cartridge, grey or cloudy water at first is normal and clears.
- Write the date on the housing or your magnet so the next change is easy to schedule.
Common questions
| What you’re seeing | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Water pressure has dropped through the house | A loaded cartridge. This is the normal end-of-life signal — change it. On heavy-sediment water this can happen at 3–6 months. |
| Leak where the housing meets the cap | O-ring not seated in its groove, or worn. Depressurize, reseat or replace the O-ring, lightly grease it. |
| Leak at a 1″ port connection | Too little PTFE tape, or the nipple O-ring is missing or pinched. Redo with 5–10 wraps. Do not over-torque — that cracks caps even with brass inserts. |
| Water weeping from the pressure-release button | Debris under the button seal, or a worn button. Depressurize and press it several times to clear it. If it keeps weeping, replace the housing. |
| Housing won’t unscrew | Pressure still in the housing, or it was overtightened last time. Confirm the water is off and you’ve pressed the release button, then use the Big Blue wrench. |
| Still tastes or smells of chlorine | Expected with the sediment cartridge fitted — sediment media doesn’t touch chlorine. Chlorine reduction needs a carbon cartridge, which on a single-stage system means giving up sediment filtration. See the note above. |
| The cartridge I bought doesn’t fit | Almost always a slim 10″×2.5″ cartridge bought by mistake. This system takes the wider 10″×4.5″ Big Blue size. |
| I received extra cartridges I can’t use | You’ve likely bought a 2- or 3-cartridge set meant for a multi-housing system. This one takes a single cartridge. |
| Water is still hard, or leaves scale | Expected. This is a filtration system, not a softener — it does not remove hardness minerals. A scale inhibitor cartridge protects plumbing but won’t soften the water. |